China's "Austria"

There are some things that make us all need a brief escape; in my case (besides an intense new assignment at work -- they must be putting something into the workahol) the first step was having my house raided by the po-po. Then a few days later an apartment official came to "inspect the gas" at 11pm, and then swiftly left without inspecting any other flats (I was later informed she's our friendly neighborhood spy). The final straw was getting my internet cut (no they don't send you bills here, they call you... if you don't understand what they say on the phone then it's tough luck). Not to mention I was already annoyed at flickr getting blocked in China but bless Firefox for their problem solving extensions. I must admit that the internet is the only modern amenity I can't live without.

Well when the going gets tough, the tough get going. One of my favorite things about Xinjiang (besides the people and the food) is that nature is near; and nothing quite able to boost one's spirits as a weekend in the beautiful surrounding hills. On a rare clear day one can see the snow capped tops of the Tian Shan mountains in the distance, elegantly stretching for the heavens; it makes one want to laugh and sing all at once.

China's "Austria" as Nanshan was named during the nomadfest is only about 2 hours away by bus. The bus fare is 9RMB while the park entrance fee is 10RMB; they have no shame as they ask for the "entrance fee" with a wicked toothless grin, the bandits! Of course there are ways around it; one just asks the bus driver to stop a bit before the entrance to the reserve, leaps across the creek, clambers up a hill and voila, there you are at "Kamil the Kazakh's" little village house. We refer to him as "Gollum" however, never mind that he has a heart of gold. He always treats us to some dish which is mostly meat, and will also provide ample quantities of his salty milk tea and hard bread one becomes quickly accustomed to. This time he taught me how to make cream from milk and also served the best homemade yogurt I've ever tasted (the cheater milks his own cows though). His wife is twice his size, but can't live a minute without him... what a guy. :)

The landlords' came too; and after getting tipsy off spirits the Uyghur and Kazakh engaged in the most ridiculous historical debates (both of which having a very distorted view thanks to the different communist systems they were both brought up under), which had me laughing so hard two drops of pee escaped. They found the common ground by teasing me and trying to drop chunks of butter into my soup when I wasn't looking. The food gives one strength though, or perhaps it was the beauty of the scenery that inspired hours of hiking.


Now that I'll be working out of Shanghai for the next month I'll certainly miss the people, the food, and the ability to escape the city to lose myself in nature. On the other hand the sea is indeed closer (not that one can swim in it)... I might just find myself in Hong Kong again.